Currant

Currant is as easy to grow as it is delicious to eat! Given its price in the super market, it would be a pity not to plant any!
Common name : Currant
Scientific name : Ribes spp.
Family : Grossulariaceae
Category : Fruit plants
Type of plant : Perennial
Edible
Edible
A fruit bush with slightly prickly stems, cousin to brambles and blackberries, with brownish-reddish wood and tender green foliage. Depending on the type, the fruit can take on a variety of colors when mature.

Sowing & planting

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Flowering

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Harvestint

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Caracteristics

Exposition
Water needs
Granulométrie plants.granulometry_2
Frost-resistance High
Zone USDA 6a
Height 100 - 200
pH 6 - 7

Identify my currant

Currant is a member of the Ribes genus and the Grossulariaceae family, producing berries that are loved by all kinds of birds...and people too!

Plant my currant

You can plant shoots with bare roots from October to March, and you have until May for pre-potted plants. Avoid freezing periods as much as possible. Currants like to have full, indirect, sunlight. They may eventually be planted in partial shade, especially if they're shelted by a wall that will keep them warm. They prefer rich soil, and they'll pay you back in rich fruit! Remember to weed thoroughly before planting to avoid any risk of competition, especially with invasive species — what other, less-informed people than you still call "weeds" — to limit infestation and sickness. Plant the green sprouts of the young shoots in a hole 8 - 10cm deep. Ideally, plant in a line oriented from north to south. Allow 1.5 metres of space between each plant, and also count for 1.5 meters between planting holes. Enrich the soil used during planting with compost. Be careful: don't bury the base of the stem, as this will slow the growth of your plant.

Trellise my currant

Direct the growth of your currants before they become too large, partially to slow their development, which can turn out to be fairly quick, but also to insure optimum fruit production. If you have a full row of currants — lucky you ! — plant them in a line marked by small stakes, with wire connected to both sides of the stakes at a height between 40 - 80cm. Leave about 60cm of space between each plant. Your currants will grow and stay contained between the wires — nice and organized! Keep an eye on the stems and don't think twice about putting a wayward stalk back in line! If you only have one or two plants, you can use stakes to support the stems, but they need to be checked on regularly, even changing the stakes over the course of the season!

Reap my currant

Eating fruit straight from the tree is hard to resist! The whole question is knowing if you should eat these berries that could still use a bit more sun right now, or if someone will have eaten them before you come back to the garden!

Mulch my currant

Mulch in April to maintain humidity. Water thoroughly and cover with a thick layer of mulch. You can use dried grass clippings, wood chips, bark, straw or dead leaves.

Water my currant

Unlike other berry producing plants, gooseberry bushes require quite a bit of water, especially during the first weeks after planting, and during the fruiting period. This need is even greater is they are kept in pots or experience periods of drought. Keep a moist substrate, but most importantly cover the roots with mulch. Depending on the quality of mulch, you may only need to add more on rare occasions.

Prune my currant

Prune your currants towards the end of winter, ideally in February. Temperatures must be kept mild and dry, with no risk of freezing. Prune extensively: first thin out the centre of the plant as light penetration is a key growth factor, and remove any bent or sickly stems. To rejuvenate aging roots, shorten the entire plant by pruning it's height by 1/3.

Propagate my currant

You may carry out a division at the end of winter. Dig up the plant, separate and remove old roots, and keep only the healthiest cuttings. Transplant the cuttings in light, nutrient rich soil — water copiously for a few weeks.

Check on my currant

Currants are sufficiently resistant to diseases overall. Nevertheless, you might be run into powdery mildew, which appears in felty, white patches on all or part of the plant, especially the leaves. Rust fungus causes orange-brown pustules on the undersides of leaves, and aphids will cause leaves to roll up and lose their original color. Keep an eye out for scale insects too! You may make a stinging nettle fertilizer to cure the effects of powdery mildew — you can even find 100% organic stinging nettle fertilizer in garden stores! Aphids feed primarily on leaves, especially in spring. To fight against aphids, adopt some ladybugs! There are lots of ways to get rid of aphids, so try to avoid the old, harmful method of spraying soapy water on fruit bearing plants.

Groww, the plant identification and gardening app